We had to visit the Foreigner Office last month for the millionth time since landing in Dresden, this time for visa renewals for Jake and me and a first-time visa for Jethro. I think the petite, poker-faced, bespectacled woman we always get is warming up to us the longer we're here. In the beginning it felt a little like she was trying to make our lives miserable. I think the lowest point was when she refused to accept our spartan Idaho marriage license because it didn't look official. (We had to write to the Idaho State government, and they had to write to the Foreigner Office vouching for our marital status.) But over the last almost 2 years, we've tried to maintain our civility with her. I think that, combined with watching my pregnant belly grow with each visit over the last year, and now seeing us with a baby on our laps as she stamps our forms, has softened her up a little. In fact, last week, as she was standing over the photocopier making copies of our expired visas, she actually smiled in response to a happy squeal from Jethro.
The alien experience is a humbling one. Being herded from bureaucracy to bureaucracy and having your existence reduced to documents and numbers can be a little dehumanizing, but I've also come to respect the system. I finally get why you can't just pitch a tent on any nation you want and decide to make it your home. I finally get that the way immigration is handled can make or break a country. Since coming to Germany, I've been acutely aware that I am a guest here. The German taxpayers are allowing me to use their public transit system and their health care programs and their clean and beautiful public spaces, and I feel a strong responsibility to be a good guest.
And part of that is learning their language. Even though most Germans have at least a little English, I've tried (as much as has been possible) to avoid making them use it. This is their country, and I should adapt to them. Not the other way around. I had a little bit of German when we got here, but I still couldn't understand a word of what people said to me or choke out a coherent sentence when pressed. Learning German has been one of the hardest things I've ever done in my life. It has involved countless hours of studying and listening and taking notes. And it has involved looking like an idiot almost daily. I'm sure I've used the phrases, "Langsamer, bitte!" ("Slower, please!") and "Noch einmal?" ("One more time?") thousands of times. I have regularly wanted to slam my head through a wall, and for the first few months I don't think a day went by that my anxiety over the language didn't bring me to tears. It is a painful experience to have your language — in my case, the thing I've devoted my life to studying and perfecting — be rendered meaningless.
But as the months passed, an incredible thing happened. I started understanding people, and I started to be able to express myself very simply. Today, my German is still very, very rough. I suspect I sound like a 2-year-old to Germans most of the time. A 2-year-old with a weird accent. And I still don't understand as much as I'd like to. I have to concentrate hard when I listen to people. I furrow my brow and squint and stare at their lips. But I'd say that most of the time I understand at least the gist of things, usually more than that. I can hold coherent conversations, follow instructions, ask questions. After about 6 months of pregnancy my OBGYN changed and from then on all my pre-natal checkups were in German, and I got by just fine. Jethro's doctor speaks only German, and we've had no problems so far. I'm an active visiting teacher, and, though it may seem like a small thing, a couple of months ago I bore my testimony in church for the first time without notes or a completely memorized routine — and I felt golden for the rest of the day.
I appreciate now, more than ever, how difficult it is to learn a language. But I've learned that, with effort and humility, it does come. And I feel more strongly than ever that a country's residents should speak — or at least be learning to speak — its language. When I think of the all the free services in the U.S. set up to help immigrants learn English, I ache with envy. After going through this here, I have no patience for people who live in the U.S. for years, even decades, and can't conduct a simple sales exchange in English. That being said, however, I also have zero patience for any American who mocks immigrants for their accents or their halted speech or who ever utters the words, "Learn English or go home!" without ever attempting to learn another language themselves.
We aliens shouldn't be coddled or patronized. If we are, the system won't work. But we do need the patience and kindness of the native citizens if we are ever expected to assimilate and grow. So thanks for the smile, glasses lady at the foreigner office. It means more than you realize.
JEM
Sunday, May 3, 2009
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
lol
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Eat Like a Native: The Wurst That Could Happen

I know the stereotype of Germans is that they walk around in lederhosen with a sausage in one hand and a beer in the other. But I'm sick and tired of Americans and their stereotyping, so here's the truth: Germans don't wear lederhosen that often.
The word in German for any kind of meat stuffed into a casing is "Wurst". You've got bratwurst, bockwurst, blutwurst, currywurst, wurstchen. Bolognas and salamis fit into this sweeping category, as do a number of other cased meats.

And Germans love it. It's not uncommon to see a toddler in a stroller munching on a cold wienie wrapped in a paper towel or to see a construction worker at the grocery store at lunchtime purchasing nothing for his midday meal but a package of cold wienies and a drink. It's naturally a staple at cookouts and at outdoor community events, but I didn't fully appreciate the role wurst played in everyday German life until Jethro was born.
For two whole weeks after his birth, the good women from my church brought me meals, and although I've eaten with Germans a lot here, I think this was my first real insight into their daily eating habits. Every meal was delicious and wonderful, but if my memory serves me, I think wurst played a starring role in about two-thirds of the meals.
We've incorporated into our own eating habits here. Behold, one of our favorite meals:
Yeah, I know. It looks pretty stark. But this is standard German fare, canned wienies and warm crusty rolls. And I assure, despite my own hesitations, this is good eatin'.

Particularly when paired with some really fine German mustard. Bautz'ner is a must especially with bratwurst. We prefer the scharf, or spicy kind. I love mustard that makes fire come out of my nose.

Here's a tasty little trick we've learned. Mix a little of the scharf Bautz'ner with a big dollop of King Ludwig sweet mustard. Oooooh, mama.
I love you, wurst.JEM
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Frohe Ostern!
Despite its largely non-religious population, Germans are big fans of Easter. Probably because it marks the beginning of spring, and Germans love being outside gardening, hiking, grilling, rollerblading, biking, or just strolling. Everything shuts down the Friday before Easter and the Monday after, and in the week or two preceding Easter, everyone wishes one another a happy "Osterfest". I don't recall cashiers regularly wishing me a happy Easter in the States, but I've gotten it from every cashier I've encountered here in the last week.
One of my favorite German Easter traditions is this:


About a month before Easter, Germans hang little Easter eggs all over their trees and shrubbery. It always makes me excited when I see them start to pop up. It's one of Germany's surefire first signs of spring.
And goodness knows we're all ready for it.


JEM
One of my favorite German Easter traditions is this:

About a month before Easter, Germans hang little Easter eggs all over their trees and shrubbery. It always makes me excited when I see them start to pop up. It's one of Germany's surefire first signs of spring.
And goodness knows we're all ready for it.
JEM
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Meanwhile, Back at the Ranch ...
Jasmine E. Michaelson: Soooo ... uhmmm ... hi.
American Dresdner: Well, well, well. If it isn't JEM.
JEM: Yeah, about that ...
AD: Do you have any idea how much you worried me? I had all the neighbors out looking for you! I called the police ...
JEM: You called the police? What did you tell them?
AD: Just that I hadn't heard from you in a long time and it wasn't like you and could they look into it.
JEM: Wow. I had no idea I'd upset you so much.
AD: I just knew you were dead in a ditch somewhere. Anyway, they wanted to know what our relationship was, and when I told them they told me not to abuse emergency services and hung up on me.
JEM: Well, listen, I'm really sorry.
AD: [silent, refuses to make eye contact]
JEM: C'mon! What do you want me to say?
AD: An explanation would be nice.
JEM: I guess I don't really have one. It's actually been a pretty boring couple of weeks. In fact, that's the main reason I haven't stopped by. I haven't had anything interesting to report. For the most part, it's been gray and rainy, and the Chairman of the Board has been a real taskmaster lately.
AD: Who?
JEM:
AD: Oh, right, him. He's really starting to hammer a wedge between us.
JEM: Hey now, he's just a baby. He needs lots of care and love.
AD: AND I DON'T?!
JEM: Anyway, we haven't really gotten out lately because he's been sort of moody. But we've had lots of fun here at home! Here, let me show you. [removes photos from wallet]
AD: Oh, jeez. Here we go.
JEM: He rolled over for the first time:




And I finally caught him on video laughing (apparently the way I was fluffing the pillows was pretty funny):
And, when he's not freaking out in public, he's been darn cute.
But I can see your eyes are glazing over.
AD: No, no! Please keep going!
JEM: Are you being sarcastic? Because I will keep going, if you want.
AD: I was being sarcastic.
JEM: Oh.
AD: There must've been something interesting that happened. Something with a little drama and intrigue. Something that will hold our two remaining readers.
JEM: Well, today I polished off my last jar of Jif Crunchy Peanut Butter, but fortunately I recently discovered a German peanut butter that's relatively edible. That was pretty exciting.
AD: You know what? Why don't you just disappear again for a little while.
JEM: You don't mean that.
AD: Oh, I do. I really do.
American Dresdner: Well, well, well. If it isn't JEM.
JEM: Yeah, about that ...
AD: Do you have any idea how much you worried me? I had all the neighbors out looking for you! I called the police ...
JEM: You called the police? What did you tell them?
AD: Just that I hadn't heard from you in a long time and it wasn't like you and could they look into it.
JEM: Wow. I had no idea I'd upset you so much.
AD: I just knew you were dead in a ditch somewhere. Anyway, they wanted to know what our relationship was, and when I told them they told me not to abuse emergency services and hung up on me.
JEM: Well, listen, I'm really sorry.
AD: [silent, refuses to make eye contact]
JEM: C'mon! What do you want me to say?
AD: An explanation would be nice.
JEM: I guess I don't really have one. It's actually been a pretty boring couple of weeks. In fact, that's the main reason I haven't stopped by. I haven't had anything interesting to report. For the most part, it's been gray and rainy, and the Chairman of the Board has been a real taskmaster lately.
AD: Who?
JEM:
JEM: Hey now, he's just a baby. He needs lots of care and love.
AD: AND I DON'T?!
JEM: Anyway, we haven't really gotten out lately because he's been sort of moody. But we've had lots of fun here at home! Here, let me show you. [removes photos from wallet]
AD: Oh, jeez. Here we go.
JEM: He rolled over for the first time:
And I finally caught him on video laughing (apparently the way I was fluffing the pillows was pretty funny):
And, when he's not freaking out in public, he's been darn cute.
But I can see your eyes are glazing over.
AD: No, no! Please keep going!
JEM: Are you being sarcastic? Because I will keep going, if you want.
AD: I was being sarcastic.
JEM: Oh.
AD: There must've been something interesting that happened. Something with a little drama and intrigue. Something that will hold our two remaining readers.
JEM: Well, today I polished off my last jar of Jif Crunchy Peanut Butter, but fortunately I recently discovered a German peanut butter that's relatively edible. That was pretty exciting.
AD: You know what? Why don't you just disappear again for a little while.
JEM: You don't mean that.
AD: Oh, I do. I really do.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
A Morning in the Garden
Germany has miserable winters. They're not that cold compared to the frigid winters I spent growing up in Idaho buried under 10 feet of snow for four months solid. But even at its coldest in Idaho, nay, especially at its coldest, the sun comes out and the skies are bright, bright blue. Here, however, thanks to our higher latitude, the days are much shorter (10 a.m. to about 4 p.m.), and thanks to our wetter climate, the skies are dismal and gray for weeks at a time. So when I woke up last Thursday and could see patches of blue out my bedroom window, I nearly wept. And then I took Jethro to the park.
Even devoid of leaves, Dresden's Großer Garten, or Great Garden, was glorious. Carpeted in gold and purple crocuses and filled with birdsong, it reminded me how much I love it here.
I parked the Kinderwagen next to a pond and sat Jethro on my lap to watch the strolling people and the swimming ducks and swans.



And I was once again struck with the nagging feeling that wherever I go and whatever I do in my life, I doubt I'll ever find myself living in a more beautiful place.

JEM

JEM
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