FIELDTRIP! to Meissen

Before I say anything about Meissen, I want to say that my account of it won't do the place justice. We just wandered around it for a few hours one Saturday morning in September without a plan or a guidebook, just to get a feel for the place before naptime. Jethro's naptime.

OK, and maybe Jake's and my naptime, too. It's an important part of our weekend ritual, and I refuse to apologize for it.

Now, let us begin. Meissen is an absolutely picturesque little German city on the Elbe 25 kilometers outside Dresden. It's home to about 30,000 people and an inordinate amount of history and fame, given its size. The reason for that is porcelain.

It was in Meissen in 1708 that the first fine white porcelain was concocted outside Asia. The story of its creation is a surprisingly gripping one, involving a charlatan alchemist who claimed to be able to create gold out of ordinary materials and Dresden's favorite egomaniac, Elector of Saxony August the Strong, who put the alchemist to work with a mathematician and scientist to uncover the formula for porcelain — and give August another reason to feel fantastic about himself. 

 

Meissen porcelain is still regarded as the some of the finest in the world.

 

 

There's a big porcelain factory in Meissen, but we didn't go to it. Judging by their advertising campaign, it's probably not a good place for children. Or husbands.

 

In case you were wondering, the item being sold here is the strategically positioned teacup. 

The closest we got to any porcelain was through shop windows. After examining the price tags through the thick glass, I decided I shouldn't let myself or my 2-year-old get any closer than that. The only thing I saw that was within our price range was a porcelain thimble.

Downtown Meissen is great for strolling. There are beautiful shops and buildings and narrow, winding cobblestone streets.

"Wake up, you're having a bad dream!"

If you're up for a good cardio workout, push your 200 pound kinderwagen up the 90 degree switchbacks that lead to the city's impressive gothic cathedral, built in 1450.

All that, a yummy lunch of Sauerbraten and Rotkohl in the town square and home in time for a nap. Thanks, Meissen. You are just the gem everyone said you were.



JEM